great revolution going on, in India another, in Egypt an- 149 other, in Persia another j there were reflections from one to another which intensified the piercing gleams $ there were echoes and reverberations. The vertical life of man was constantly churned by the revolutions of these great gleaming wheels of light. Now it. is dark. Nowhere throughout the greatly enlarged world is there the least sign or evidence of the turning of a wheel. The last wheel has fallen apart, the vertical life is done with5 man is spreading over the face of the earth in every direction like a fungus growth, blotting out the last' gleams of 1 light, the last hopes. I went back to my room determined to plunge into that great unknown tract which we call Crete, anciently the kingdom of Minos, son of Zeus, whose birthplace it was. Since the wheel fell apart, before that too no doubt, every foot of the land has been fought over, conquered and reconquered, sold, bartered, pawned, auctioned off, levelled with fire and sword, sacked, plundered, admin- istered over by tyrants and demons, converted by fanatics and zealots, betrayed, ransomed, traduced by the great powers of our day, desolated by civilized and savage hordes alike, desecrated by all and sundry, hounded to death like a wounded animal, reduced to terror and idiocy, left gasping with rage and impotence, shunned by all like a leper and left to expire in its own dung and ashes. Such is the cradle of our civilization as it was when finally re- linquished and bequeathed to its miserable, destitute in- habitants. What hid been the birthplace of the greatest of the gods, what had been the cradle and the mother and the inspiration of the Hellenic wor!4, was finally annexed and not so long ago made part of Greece. What a cruel travesty! What a malefic destiny! Here the trav- eller has to hang his head in shame. This is the Ark left high and dry by the receding waters of dvilization. This F*